What do James McAvoy and my three-year-old son have in common? Very little, you might think, notwithstanding their shared awareness of the book The Dinosaur That Pooped a Planet. Yet their lives overlap in a more tangible way, because they, along with Benedict Cumberbatch, patronise the same cafes on Hampstead Heath. Both actors have signed a petition protesting against the takeover of four family-owned north London cafes by the Australian-inspired chain Daisy Green. It’s a move that has dismayed the local community, leading to protests, and threats of legal action against the landowner, the City of London Corporation, whose new funding model for green spaces prioritises “income generation”.
You’re probably wondering why you should care, either about what Hollywood actors think, or about this notoriously chi-chi part of London.
Yes, you're right.
And yet, like them, and like me, you probably have a favourite cafe, one that feels very special.
OK, back to wrong again! My, that was quick. I certainly don't.
The UK used to be full of cafes such as this: often immigrant-owned, and serving a combination of cuisines. On the surface they seem basic, perhaps even a little scruffy. They are certainly not Instagrammable. Yet what they offer – friendliness, inclusivity – is worth more to the clientele than social media kudos.
So why are they threatened? Is it because in Labour's failing economy, they are unsustainable?
This isn’t just a story about gentrification and the homogeneity that comes with it, but one of social atomisation. As more and more chains dominate high streets all over the country, truly mixed, inclusive spaces become rarer and rarer.
If mixed, inclusive spaces were so desirable, wouln'y these high street chains offer them?
I know I am not alone in not wanting my local cafe to turn into what so many others have across the UK and beyond: a list of signifiers, part of a corporate, global language that masquerades as friendly and laid-back but is – in its aesthetic and its pricing – tailored only for a certain demographic, and is indistinguishable from a thousand other similar places.
It sounds as though Rhiannon doesn't consider herself part of the demographic that patronises chains like Costa and Starbucks. Is that maybe the real issue. Certainly, every one of these chains I've been in is full of immigrants serving the coffee and cakes, so it can't be that. It has a name, you know - snobbery. Why not use it?
Couldn't James McAvoy or Benedict Cumberbatch just buy their own " basic, perhaps even a little scruffy" cafe ?
ReplyDeleteRhiannon probably could too, but that's too much like hard work!
DeleteDuring the 1970s and 1980s I worked various parts of London, from Knightsbridge to the East End. One of the first things I did was to suss out the local Italian greasy spoons. The best cuppa and eggs fried proper with a fried slice and a couple of rashers of streaky. Tin foil ashtrays glinting through the fug. Most towns large and small had one. Now they've all gone, it's getting harder to top up my cholesterol. Where were the luvvies when we needed them?
ReplyDeleteExtolling the virtues of foreign climes, no doubt.
DeleteThey're all for globalism - they'll tell you its a 'net benefit' - until globalism threatens something they like. Its not a 'net benefit' when they personally have to feel the downsides.
ReplyDeleteSpot on!
DeleteThe families who had those cafes can sell the business to whoever they like. If anyone doesn't like it it's tough. Shoulda bought it yourself.
ReplyDeleteRhoda K
Well, true, though it seems some of them are leaseholds rather than owned freeholds.
Delete"The UK used to be full of cafes such as this: often immigrant-owned, and serving a combination of cuisines."
ReplyDeleteWe have a great little cafe in town and try to go whenever we are both off work at the weekend. It's owned by English people and serves English food
If the owners decided to sell it to Subway because they couldn't keep it running in Starmers Britain, we wouldn't like it, but I don't think anyone in town would be considering legal action or writing a Guardian column