London leads the way in so many culinary fields. It can’t be beaten for fine dining. We have a sandwich game second to none. And the sushi is so good people have been known to travel from Japan for it. But Achilles had his heel, and we have fish and chips.
Not entirely true, I feel, my local - which provides my regular Friday night supper - is good. I wouldn't use it if it wasn't. But I've had better. On holiday recently, walking the John Muir Way from Dunbar to Belhaven on Bank Holiday Monday (and getting sunburned!) we stopped in at the Brig and Barrel for a meal before heading back to Edinburgh.
Now, cod is not the usual up there, it's haddock, so I had beer battered haddock, and it was quite different from the occasional haddock I've ordered here just for a change. Probably because it was locally caught and fresh, not frozen. And even the beer that went into the batter was local, from the brewery next door.
The truth of it is, the capital is the worst place in the country to eat our national dish. I should know: I wrote The Standard’s best fish and chip guide. The best in London, sure. But if anyone told me that these were the best fish and chips in Britain, I’d feel as if I’d been slapped round the face with a wet haddock.
Two of my picks for best London chippies, Golden Union in Soho and Seashell of Lisson Grove in Marylebone, were nominated for this year’s National Fish and Chip Awards. Neither were eventual winners though as York’s The Scrap Box was named best takeaway and Trenchers of Whitby won best restaurant.
Both from 'oop North', it should be noted.
Why are fish and chips in London such a damp squib when the capital excels at every style of cooking under the sun?
He then laboriously tries various suggestions: that cod is tasteless compared to haddock (true, if haddock is fresh), that whatever fish is used, it's not as fresh (sone truth to that!), that it just doesn't taste as good unless it's eaten at the seaside (rubbish! though I'll test that theory if I take a day trip to Rye next month as planned) but he never thinks to question the cooking oil.
Beef dripping is far preferable! Forget health worries, it just is...
